Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.